Having reported at London Fashion Week (HERE), I had an idea of the trends to expect for autumn winter 2015, but analysing them now, there are definitely some strong themes we can expect.
In particular, the designers seem to be looking back in history for inspiration. As mentioned by Ken Downing (Senior Vice President of Neiman Marcus) ” In these uncertain times we look to romanticism…It is easier to look to the past when redefining the future.”
Some designers like Marchesa visited the 20’s whilst others visited the more recent decade of the 80’s/90’s. However the strongest trends seem to be the 70’s that we are seeing for the summer and there was a blur between this and the 60’s with mini skirts and knee length boots in abundance. Another more prominent trend was a more historic combination harping back to the Victorian and Renaissance.
In contrast, colour has been a big game changer for the winter with bold primary colours against black in a variety of colour blocking styles.
Overall, next season will all be about layering as the styles we will look forward to are not your average chunky winter woollies!
Here is my trend forecast in detail…
A classic winter colour in deep rich burgundy that works well against black.
Designers: Longchamp, Esteban Cortazar, Hermes, Givenchy, Elie Saab, Emilio Pucci, Emporio Armani, Barbara Casasola, Issa, Aashley Isham, Daks, Proenza Schouler, Zac Posen
This was all over the catwalks adding a bright contrast to the darker winter tones.
Designers: Cedric Charlier, Balmain, MSGM, Iceberg, Bally, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Lucas Nascimento, Julien Macdonald, HEMYCA, Oscar de la Renta, Pamella Roland, Cynthia Rowley
Predominantly a burn orange/saffron colour it added a strong accent to the neutrals.
Designers: Hermes, John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Veronique Leroy, Carven, MSGM, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Raeburn, Osman, Hugo Boss, Opening Ceremony
This was a popular colour for the 70’s & fur trend giving an autumnal feel to the winter wardrobe.
Designers: Sonia Rykiel, Chloe, Celine, Acne Studios, Maison Margiela, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Etro, Fendi, Jasper Conran, Karen Walker, Christian Siriano, Rebecca Minkoff
Giving a more sophisticated, fresh feel were head to toe neutrals.
Designers: Rahul Mishra, Hermes, Stella McCartney, Nina Ricci, Alessandra Rich, Chalayan, Tods, MaxMara, Joseph, Pringle of Scotland, Calvin Klein, Ralph Laurent
Pastels have been around for a while now but its the more dusky shades we will see next season.
Designers: Longchamp, Veronique Branquinho, Giambattista Valli, Juan Carlos Obando, Akris, Blumarine, Prada, Francesco Scognamiglio, Emilia Wickstead, J JS Lee
There were some monochrome pieces on the catwalks, and designers used black as a backdrop to block colour, but overall, black reigned dominant with many designers creating their entire collection in this colour.
Designers: St Laurent, Sacai, Givenchy, Emanuel Ungaro, Martin Grant, Elie Saab, Haider Ackermann, Maiyet, Paco Robanne, Ann Demeulemeester, Zadig Voltaire, Emilio Pucci, Versace, Emporio Armani, Costume National, Philipp Plein, H by Hakaan Yildirim, Barbara Casasola, Issa, Gareth Pugh, Narciso Rodriguez, Diesel Black Gold, Donna Karen, Porsche Design,
The classic Leopard print was the popular choice of animal print for AW15.
Designers: Louis Vuitton, Leonard, Comme Des Garcons, Haider Ackermann, Roberto Cavalli, Fay, Alexander McQueen, Erdem, Tom Ford, Nicole Miller
From gingham to plaid, checks were all over the catwalks in all shapes, colours and sizes. You cant go wrong with this print next season.
Designers: Miu Miu, Valentino, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Paul & Joe, Chanel, Sonia Rykiel, Veronique Branquinho, Giambattista Valli, Acne Studios, Vivienne Westwood, Haider Ackermann, Balenciaga, Roberto Cavalli, Bottega Veneta, Fay, Voctoria Beckham, Mulberry, Paul Smith, House of Holland, Emilia Wickstead, Orla Kiely, Aashley Isham, Paul Costelloe, Rodart, Phillip Lim, Tommy Hilfiger, Adam Selman, Creatures Of Comfort
Colour clashing block prints in bright primary colours or worn as contrasting coloured separates, this was an unexpected trend used by many designers to brighten up the darker winter palate.
Designers: Giambattista Valli, Stella McCartney, John Galliano, Celine, Balmain, Cedric Charlier, Jacquemus, MSGM, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Iceberg, Philosophy, Moschino, Tata Naka, J Moon, Roksanda, Daks, Eudon Choi, Hugo Boss, Milly, DKNY, Ohne Titel, Sachin Babi
Florals are always popular for winter, but the standout print for AW15 is a much bigger flower in an almost 70’s inspired poppy shape.
Designers: Kenzo, Stella McCartney, Andrew Gn, Erika Cavallini, Michael Van Der Ham, Burberry, Lucas Nascimento, Markus Lupfer, Cynthia Rowley, Creatures of the Wind
This was a vintage inspired retro print that in either geometric or psychedelic styles.
Designers: Longchamp, Julien David, Issey Miyake, Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders, Jasper Conran, Jeremy Scott
Although not as popular as colour blocking, patchwork & print clashing were seen on a number of catwalks from skirts to knitwear.
Designers: Chalayan, Marco De Vincenzo, Etro, Stella Jean, Ashish, Tata Naka, Marques Almeida, Michael Van Der Ham, Antonio Berardi, Preen, BCBG Max Azria
Embracing the 70’s trend, we will still see suede for the winter. Although fur & leather look like the more popular choice of fabric by designers.
Designers: Jitrois, Sonia Rykiel, Maison Margiela, Balmain, Anthony Vaccarello, Jill Stuart, Rebecca Minkoff, Zimmermann, Polo Ralph Lauren
Fur was everywhere on the catwalks in huge varieties from shearling textures, mixed with suede, in patchwork, ombre or primary colours.
Designers: Louis Vuitton, Valetino, Bernard Chandran, Sonia Rykiel, Giambattista Valli, Sacai, Chloe, Celine, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Christian Dior, Zadig Voltaire, MSGM, Marni, Emilio Pucci, Just Cavalli, Roksanda, Belstaff, Topshop Unique, Gareth Pugh, Tom Ford, Jean-Pierre Braganza, J JS Lee, Michael Kors, Dennis Basso, Altuzarra, Brandon Sun.
SATIN & VELVET
There was a lot of velvet on the catwalks, but satin stood out as a more luxurious & glamorous fabric if choice for eveningwear.
Designers: Haider Ackermann, H&M, Saint Laurent, Georgio Armani, Trussardi, Emilio De La Morena, Christopher Kane, Osman, Antonio Berardi, Palmer Harding, Eudon Choi, James Kelly, Rag & Bone, ZAc Posen, Dion Lee, Nicole Miller, Honor, Creatures of the Wind, Hellessy
From elegant tailoring in neutral colours to full on rock-chick grunge. Leather is always a fabric to ad and edge to your wardrobe!
Designers: Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Hermes, Sacai, Acne Studios, Elie Saab, Ann Demeulemeester, Zadig Voltaire, Trussardi, Tods, Costume National, Fendi, Thomas Tait, Gareth Pugh, JW Anderson, Narciso Rodriguez, Brandon Sun
With a nod to all things equine, one way to keep warm next season is with quilting!
Designers: Chanel, Hermes, H&M, Dries Van Noten, Moschino, Christopher Raeburn, Hunter, Antonio Berardi
As mentioned in my previous trend blog (HERE), following Burberry’s most photographed SS15 poncho, the tribal trend looks popular with variety of poncho’s and Aztec/nomadic prints in autumnal colours.
Designers: Chloe, Andrew Gn, Isabel Marant, DSquared2, KTZ, BCBG Max Azria
Again, following from the 70’s trend the flowing chiffon print maxi-dress will continue into the winter in darker tones despite the cold climate!
Designers: Paul & Joe, Veronique Branquinho, John Galliano, Elie Saab, Burberry, Temperley London, Ong Oaj Pairam, J.Mendel, Rebecca Minkoff, Zimmermann
The 70’s silhouette isn’t going anywhere for AW15. Turtle necks, neck scarves (big trend), high wasted trousers, large collars, busy floral prints, flairs, & shearling all give a nod to the look.
Designers: Jitrois, Sonia Rykiel, Chloe, Carven, Etro, Philosophy, Just Cavalli, Thomas Tait, Topshop Unique, Matthew Williamson, Orla Kiely, Felder Felder, Anna Sui, Karen Walker, Derek Lam, Altuzarra, Jill Stuart, Rebecca Minkoff, Zimmermann
The retro feel alternated between the 60’s and 70’s but there was a distinct nod to the swinging sixties through mini skirts, turtle necks and primary colours.
Desingers: Giambattista Valli, John Galliano, MSGM, Mugler, Isabel Marant, Maison Margiela, Carven, Emilio Pucci, Versace, Prada, Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders, Fyodor Golan (nod to 90’s My Little Pony), Delpozo, Adam Selman
From Victorian to Baroque & the Renissance, high ruffled necks, tapestry and decorative elegance brought femininity to the catwalks in historic style.
Designers: Alexander McQueen, Valentino, Givenchy, Philosophy, Alberta Faretti, Giles, Simone Rocha, Badgley Mischka, Reem Acra, Alice & Olivia
Oversized, boxy/early 90’s style jackets with slouched silhouettes in autumnal tones gave a more masculine look to the catwalks.
Designers: Paul & Joe, Esteban Cortazar, Vivienne Westwood, Julien David, Missoni, Zoe Jordan, Costello Tagliapietra, Polo Ralph Lauren
FLAIRS /WIDE LEG TROUSERS
We have already seen these for the summer, but for AW15 they Ranged from soft flairs, to slouchy and extreme wide leg in soft materials. These will definitely be the trouser of choice next season.
Designers: Stella-McCartney, Chloe, Akris, Jitrois, Paule Ka, Emanuel Ungaro, Ellery, Nina Ricci, Veronique Leroy, Theory, Undercover, Loewe, Jil Sander, Thomas Tait, Paul Smith, Parvane, Eudon Choi, Nanette Lepore, Vera Wang, Brandon Sun, Nicole Miller, Wes Gordon, Marissa Webb
Slightly longer than the culotte but shorter than the ankle grazer, this is going to be a tricky one to pull off in those chilly winter months!
Designers: Christian Dior, Maiyet, Missoni, MSGM, Antonio Marras, Emporio Armani, Calvin Klein, Tibi
WHITE TURTLE NECKS
Used with all the trends listed above and a way to look elegant & sharp whilst staying warm, the turtle neck is going to be your wardrobe staple for winter.
Designer: Louis Vuitton, Giambattista Valli, Leonard, Veronique Leroy, Christian Dior, Loewe, Cedric Charlier, Emilio Pucci, Jil Sander, Iceberg, Ralph Laurent, Narciso Rodriguez, DKNY, Victoria Beckham, See by Chloe
Apart from fur or leather, the key dramatic piece of outerwear for the winter will be the maxi coat.
Designers: Paul & Joe, Veronique Branquinho, Leonard, John Galliano, Chloe, Maison Margiela, Christian Dior, Jil Sander, Parvane, James Kelly, Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodriguez, Jason Wu, Zimmermann, Nicholas K,
There were a lot of lighter weight fabrics and styles seen on the catwalks for the winter, so it makes sense that layering will be a trend to keep us warm
Designers: Bernard Chandran, Giambattista Valli, Kenzo, No.21, Ralph Laurent, Marissa Webb
From flares to extreme a-lines & pleats, all styles look covered for winter.
Designers: Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, Leonard, Loewe, Cedric Charlier, Gucci, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou, Emilia Wickstead, Paul Costelloe, Marc Jacobs
KNEE LENGTH WRAP SKIRT
This was predominantly seen on pencil skirts, providing an elegant sophisticated look.
Designers: Rahul Mishra, Hermes,Balenciaga, Lanvin, Alexis Mabille, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tibi, Hellessy
Feathers and fringing were popular with designers adding texture & detail to the 70’s and Tribal trends.
Designers: Valentin Yudashkin, Celine, Esteban Cortazar, Sacai, Maiyet, Lanvin, Burberry, Issa, Sass And Bide, Eudon Choi, Ralph Laurent, Marchesa, Suno, Rebecca Minkoff, BCBG Max Azria
Hopefully you’ve found this useful!